Visit Sri Lanka’s southern coast between November and April to spot blue whales and dolphins

For a weekend getaway, Sri Lanka presents a diverse array of experiences, including stunning beaches, lush forests, tea estates, cultural monuments, shopping malls and vibrant streets.

The trio of towns Weligama, Mirissa, and Galle, on the country’s southern coast, offers a blend of experiences that epitomise the island’s diverse allure. Weligama — the name translates to Sandy Village — serves as the perfect introduction to the region’s coastal charm.

Located 175 kilometres south of Colombo, a journey through Weligama’s streets reminds you of the rustic charms of early 2000s. Its beaches, fringed with fine golden sand and dotted with rocky mounds, create the ideal canvas for relaxation and fun activities. There are several other smaller beaches located around it like pearls on a necklace, each offering its own unique character. Just a short distance away is Mirissa, with its crescent-shaped beach filled with coconut palms, offering a gateway to marine encounters.

Encounter with the giant

Whale watching in Mirissa, located eight kilometres away from Weligama, offers a poetic maritime experience that provides a rare glimpse into the world of marine giants. You have to leave before dawn at Mirissa Harbour, paying $50 (₹4,400) per head for a group tour, to witness blue whales in their natural habitat. Travelling up to 12 nautical miles into the sea, boats search for a glimpse of these gentle giants, who often come to the surface during their quest for food. During the nearly six-hour boat cruise, you can encounter numerous dolphins swimming at an arm’s length from the boats.

Mirissa harbour at dawn as boats prepare to depart for the sea, ready for whale watching excursions.
| Photo Credit:
Niranjan R. Varma

Once a blue whale is sighted, boats go as close as 50 feet and turn their engines off while you watch the gigantic creature emerge from the depths of the ocean, their massive forms breaking the surface of water with a quiet majesty. The peak season for whale watching runs from November to April, with highest chances of sighting occurring between January and March.

Chandi Lakmal, a tour operator in Weligama, says the tourist season is when they make money for livelihood. “From December to March, I work up to 18 hours a day, as a tour guide. During the off-season, I go out to the sea for fishing, which usually provides me with little money to survive. Most years, we earn enough during the tourist season to comfortably live off the rest of the year. It is hard work, but it pays off,” Lakmal says.

A word of caution: as your adventure takes you into seas bordering international waters, be prepared for rough tides. Those with sensitive stomachs may want to eat only a light snack before departing. Additionally, keep in mind that cellular coverage is non-existent in these territorial waters, so plan your travel accordingly.

The coastal rhythm

Weligama beach immediately captivates you with its dynamic character. Owing to its consistent waves and sandy shore, you can spot surfers riding the tides from dawn till dusk, their silhouettes cutting graceful lines against the horizon. While experienced surfers bring their boards or rent them from the nearby shacks on an hourly basis, and charge head-first into the waters, those who are apprehensive can seek the help of numerous surfing schools located right on the beach. A typical session of 90-minutes would cost you around $25-$40 USD (₹2,200-₹3,500).

Stilt fishing near Weligama beach, a traditional fishing method unique to the coastal regions of Sri Lanka.
| Photo Credit:
iStockphoto

Once you let your eyes rest around the beach, you notice that it is more than just a scenic backdrop; it is a living canvas of local life. Here, the famous stilt fishermen — seemingly suspended between the sea and sky — continue their age-old practice, offering a glimpse into Sri Lanka’s maritime heritage. Food shortages and limited fishing resources during the Second World War prompted the fishermen in Sri Lanka to come up with such innovative techniques to stave off hunger. Like silent sentinels, you can see stilt fishermen during early mornings and late afternoons perched on wooden poles driven deep into the floor of the sea, patiently awaiting their catch. The stilts are positioned a few metres offshore in shallow waters, to which the fishermen can wade through the water to reach.

A beachside adventure

After soaking in the sun on Weligama Beach, you can explore some exciting activities this coastal paradise offers. One popular option is snorkelling at Wijaya Beach, another crescent-shaped sandy strip with clear water. Here you can swim alongside sea turtles in their natural habitat, the natural reefs, which are as close as 20 metres from the beach. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for spotting these magnificent creatures as they explore the coral reefs that line the shore.

For those seeking an adrenaline rush, standup paddleboarding is another fantastic way to enjoy the calm waters while getting a full-body workout. Rentals are readily available along the beach, making it easy for beginners to get started.

If you are looking for something more laid-back, take a leisurely stroll along Secret Beach, a hidden gem just a short distance from Weligama. This tranquil spot is perfect for sunbathing or enjoying a picnic away from the crowds. The serene atmosphere allows you to unwind while listening to the soothing sounds of waves lapping against the shore.

Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is renowned for its well-preserved architecture and cobblestoned streets
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iStockphoto

Completing this coastal trifecta is the historic Galle, located 35 kilometres away from Weligama, where centuries of maritime influence have left an indelible mark. The UNESCO World Heritage Site Galle Fort is a mesmerising blend of Portuguese, Dutch and British architectural influences.

Sanctuary of comfort

Cape Weligama sits on a cliff, providing a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Nestled on a cliff 40 metres above the Indian Ocean and sprawling across 12 acres lies Cape Weligama – Relais & Chateaux, a luxury boutique resort located in Weligama that is part of the Resplendent Ceylon collection. More than just accommodation — it serves as a sanctuary that seamlessly blends luxury with local authenticity.

The Atlas offers multiple dining experiences, ranging from traditional Sri Lankan to European cuisines.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The design of the resort is inspired by traditional Sri Lankan village layouts, creating an immersive experience that feels both elegant and intimate. The rooms are strategically placed across eight thematic gardens and are named after legendary explorers and writers.

Interconnecting suites provide a spacious and convenient living arrangement for those travelling together.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The signature 60-metre crescent-shaped cliff-edge Moon Pool offers breath-taking ocean views while the Cove Pool provides a family-friendly environment with a 20-metre lap swimming area. You can indulge in multiple dining experiences at The Atlas — ranging from traditional Sri Lankan to European cuisines — each offering sophisticated and carefully curated items you can order from an à la carte menu. Notably, the homemade beetroot champagne sorbet is a standout dish that will leave you astounded. Melting in your mouth with each bite, this sweet dessert will challenge your previous perceptions of beetroot’s flavour.

Homemade beetroot champagne sorbet, celebrated for its refreshing taste and surprising flavour profile that redefines expectations of beetroot.
| Photo Credit:
Niranjan R. Varma

Equally impressive is the grilled Angus beef tenderloin, which is exceptionally tender when cooked to a medium-rare. The exterior develops a beautifully browned crust, while the interior remains warm and pink, bursting with flavour and juiciness. The meat boasts a soft, buttery texture that melts in your mouth, creating a truly satisfying bite. The resort also offers an extensive range of activities including scuba diving, surfing lessons, rice paddy bicycling and snorkelling.

For travellers considering this route, combine Mirissa, Weligama and Galle for a comprehensive southern coast experience; staying three to four days to fully absorb the region’s diversity.

Cove Beach Club, located next to the Cove Pool, offers a relaxed dining experience with stunning ocean views.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

As the sun sets over the Indian Ocean, casting golden hues across the landscape, you realise that travel is less about the places you visit and more about the stories you collect. And here, in this corner of Sri Lanka, the stories are as endless as the horizon.

The writer was in Sri Lanka on the invitation of Cape Weligama.